Australia is by far the largest country in Oceania in terms of area, and the sixth biggest in the world. It is the only country to cover an entire continent on Earth, with just 0.33% of the world’s population. More than 85 per cent of the 27.9 million Australians live within 50 kilometres of the coast. If you’re like me, preferring the bush to the shopping centres, and moving around to sitting in front of the television, you would like to spend the holidays travelling in the Outback. The clouds in the sky do look like they are trying to pass some message from beyond. The desert seems perfect till you walk through a woodland.
The outback’s sky is uninterrupted; one day it is an unblemished blue, still immaculate the next. The wide open spaces are the greatest treat for a city girl like me. It is accompanied by unspoiled air; what else could be better? No car fumes, no unwanted noise. Rustic red deserts have the charm to hypnotise my brain to tempt me to become one of the residents.
Over a third of Australia is desert, which is a massive area. The climate in the Outback is extremely hot and dry; there isn’t a lot of water or vegetation. Very few people choose to live in the Outback as it is hostile to life. It’s not easy to leave the lush and productive land behind but I could easily spend a few weeks fulfilling my dream.
Travelling to the Queensland Outback to visit what was inhabited by dinosaurs is a trip that we had planned to do for a long while, but the COVID pandemic, bushfires and floods forced us to put our enthusiasm on hold.
As a city dweller, my travel plans always include accommodation of a good standard, in a safe and convenient location, not too far from restaurants and cafes. To sacrifice health and comfort is not part of my intention. When travelling to the Outback, accommodation or petrol stations are hard to find in small towns; travellers need a different planning strategy.
I have travelled to New South Wales and Queensland many times before; I’ve just never travelled to remote parts of the Outback. With a fully fitted mobile home, weeks’ supply of cooked meals and bottled water and an up-to-date Outback map showing which towns have a petrol station, water supply, visitor centre, hospital, eatery, accommodation, camping ground and emergency phone, we were ready to go.
Remember that when things might go wrong, they often do. In general, Aussies are keen to help whoever is in need, but you might not come cross anyone in the Outback when you are desperate. The burning sun doesn’t know what sympathy is; whatever you do, just don’t add your name to the list of victims.
My interest in dinosaurs started after watching a movie as a little girl. I don’t remember what the storyline of that movie was; all I remember was the heavy thumping of the dinosaurs terrifying humans. In fact, dinosaurs became extinct approximately 66 million years ago. The species of modern humans first appeared in Africa approximately 300,000 years ago. Even give or take a million years in between, the only dinosaurs that humans saw were the birds evolved from small theropod dinosaurs. Although I know they had no ability to thump the land and it was the filmmaker’s creativity, it was fascinating to an innocent mind.
Finally, we were on our way to our dinosaur fossil hunting. I was determined to make this trip as enjoyable as I could, like everything I do in my life. Unpleasant or disagreeable circumstances are not my cup of tea.
We travelled to the Outback in Graham’s mobile home. This luxury camper van has solar panels on the roof, which supply the power to the kitchen and bathroom. It has two custom made single beds which fold against the wall when not in use. There is plenty of storage space to keep everything in place. Three computerised fans circulate and ventilate the air; the low-noise fans work well on hot days and while sleeping. There is a diesel fuel heater for the hot water which also provides heat when it’s cold and a fridge, freezer, cook top, microwave oven and kitchen sink. A shower and a toilet make travelling pleasurable. There’s enough room for a removable table and chairs, to use as a laptop desk or dining table. There is a saying: “Golden house, silver house can never compare with my mud house.” I couldn’t agree more. Now you might understand why I enjoy travelling to the Outback in this miniature mobile home.
The beauty of travelling in a mobile home or camping is the freedom. You can let your spontaneous thoughts lead you to an unknown area; it might surprise you with some unimagined outcomes. You certainly have no chance to feel bored while travelling shoes are still on your feet. Whenever we see a nice place or somewhere interesting to investigate on the way, we stop and look around; no time limits, no schedule, no pressure and free from stress.
The rule for us is we didn’t want to spend long hours driving on the road. Every hour or two, we stopped to have a hot drink, a piece of fruit, a handful of nuts or we put on our sunhats to go for a walk. We wanted to be happy and thrive; the most important thing is to be fit and healthy, mentally and physically.
Driving on the road from Victoria towards NSW, we happily witnessed unusual green vegetation on both sides of the freeway. The sunburned images were replaced with darkish green, light green, yellowish green and brownish green; all matched in a harmonious way.
Shortly before we arrived at our first rural city, Wangaratta, there was an impressive sign of a solar farm next to the Hume Freeway. Thanks to the internet, soon we found out that it is situated between Benalla and Wangaratta, 11km southwest of the town of Glenrowan in Victoria. Glenrowan West Solar Farm comprises over 373,000 solar panels which generate enough electricity to power the equivalent of approximately 41,000 local homes and prevent 110,000 tonnes of CO2 emissions which assists in the international effort to tackle climate change.
How about that? I like it when I see positive action taking place for the good of the future.
Wangaratta
Wangaratta is home to major manufacturing, transport and distribution activities, aviation products, heavy machinery, chemicals and plastics, fabricated metals, textiles and beverage and food processing. The region is blessed with rich soils and consistent rainfall, making it a highly productive agricultural area.
This is a peaceful, respectful, clean and tidy place, the city centre looks prosperous, and we didn’t see any vacant shops, which was unusual after the pandemic. There were no youngsters hanging around and doing nothing; this is one of the signs of a good community.
Walking around the town centre, we saw many accounting business signs, sports facilities, the sculpture monument of the Tin Kan 2 band which commemorates the 10th year of the Wangaratta Festival of Jazz, and The Grotto at St Brigid’s Centre. The Grotto was built in 1937 to mark the 50th anniversary of the sisters’ arrival and is constructed in the same grotto style as the one in Lourdes, France. In 1858, a peasant girl claimed she had had 18 encounters with the Virgin Mary, at one of the Catholic pilgrimage sites. Lourdes became a popular place. I noticed lots of very sick people with their carers in the crowds while I was visiting Lourdes years ago. Although there were thousands of visitors, people were moving quietly and slowly around The Grotto, paying their respects or hoping the miracle could sprinkle some dust on them and change their lives for the better. I was moved by the sincerity people were carrying with them, the hope that they were holding on to. Tears ran down my face when I put my palms together and showed my gratitude to the Virgin Mary’s statue. So you can imagine this miniature sized Grotto has a special place in my heart.
The self-guided “Bullawah Cultural Trail” was a 30 minute walk from the town centre and 2.4 kilometres long, next to the Ovens River. This project was created to celebrate and explore the ancient Aboriginal stories, knowledge, spirituality, culture, food, sculptures and skills of Wangaratta’s local Indigenous people. I found the most interesting part was the “Fibre, Food, Medicine garden”. Bush medicine was used on rare occasions, with tonics used to maintain good health and to prevent them from getting sick. They hunted and gathered all the food they needed from the wild and had a very healthy diet. They cooked their food on campfires but often it was eaten fresh and raw. Leaves, stems, bark and timber were all materials used to make shields, canoes, hunting implements, strings, bags, baskets and even jewellery. We took our own sweet time walking on the trail, reading information signs and trying to imagine what it may have been like living before colonisation in a world of plenty. Almost like a Paradise Lost, but without the romantic images of perfection! Well done indeed!
A communication tower caught my eye; it was covered with many different animals’ images and painted with bright colours. That was the first mural we saw on this trip. It looks far better than the original concrete appearance. It is more than something interesting to look at; it also brightens up the whole surrounding.
Holbrook
The first NSW town we visited is the well-known “Submarine Town” Holbrook. It is named after the first submariner to receive the Victoria Cross, Lieutenant Norman Holbrook.
In the parkland sits the original above-water line superstructure of the Oberon Class submarine HMAS OTWAY. The upper casing, fin and stern are preserved, making an impressive looking empty shell. Displays of the inside are displayed at the nearby museum: the submariners’ sleeping quarters, operations room and working and living spaces. As you can imagine, space is limited inside the submarine which means that organisation, discipline, punctuation, personal hygiene, self-respect and team spirit became very important for the team members.
There is an engaging and educational 3D hologram in which Mrs G. Holbrook tells the captivating story behind the HMAS OTWAY and the First World War hero who started it all.
There is also an original torpedo tube with a torpedo mounted and lots of interesting artefacts and related information.
Tarcutta
We were on our way to Wagga Wagga when Graham saw a sign on the freeway that reminded him of the best coffee he had a few years back while travelling. I encouraged him to drive to that town and have the coffee again.
Graham did a left-hand turn and shortly we arrived at Tarcutta. On the map, it is halfway between Melbourne and Sydney. The town has a large rest area and a designated parking area for big trucks. There are half a dozen restrooms on the site which provide a shower, toilet, basin and dryer, plus a baby change room. All facilities are free of charge. Truck drivers can snooze away without any disturbance because it’s away from the freeway traffic noise. It’s a win-win situation; drivers need to eat before they sleep and the town benefits financially.
The Re-car National Truck Drivers Memorial took a spot on the only main road in town. The memorial is dedicated to the memory of truck drivers who have been accidentally killed on Australian roads while performing their duties in the transport industry. Most of them were aged in their 20s to 40s with a few in their 60s to 80s. Imagine the pain their loved ones must have suffered. I hope it reminds everyone that we are fragile beings; no one is privileged enough to have a second chance to be alive again. Regardless of what type of vehicle one drives, please drive carefully for ourselves and those we care about.
While walking around the township as tourists do, a magpie flew above our heads, circling around us fast and unfriendly, again and again, many times. The swooping season was in full force, where the magpies defend their offspring by dive-bombing anyone or anything that comes into their vicinity. We knew she was performing her mother’s duty, trying to tell us to “Go away. Don’t you come near my babies”. As the saying goes: “God cannot be everywhere, so it invented mothers.”
We dropped into “Coffee @ Joe’s” after our morning walk. Graham happily announced that the coffee was as good as he remembered; it was smooth with a good aroma. I am a cacao drinker. I’d say my hot chocolate was better than the commercial ones. The muffin and orange cake were both yummy. We thanked Joe, the Syrian migrant who has run the coffee shop for eight years. He’s enthusiastic, friendly, plans to expand the business and probably has a good feeling about finance. It was so nice to see a bright person understand quality and be willing to make it work for himself and the community. If you happen to be near Tarcutta, why don’t you walk into 51 Sydney Street and try it for yourself?
While we were sitting under the morning sun, drinking and eating, a couple came and sat near us. The lady went inside the shop to place their order. The man was keen to talk but Graham and I kept talking and writing down notes about the town. Later, we drove towards Wagga Wagga and I felt bad about it. Why did I close up and wrap myself in what I wanted to do? Why can’t I take the time to enjoy the surroundings? Was Wagga Wagga more important than a fellow human being who reached out to talk? After some discussion, we thought we will try to give our fellow travellers more attention in the future.
Wagga Wagga
From Tarcutta we got on to “Mates Gully Road”. The pleasant and fun name gave us something to talk about while driving to the RAAF Wagga Aviation Heritage Centre Museum.
The Museum has regional-specific air force memorabilia, including photographs and documents, which show the activities of the region during World War II and after. The Centre showcases air force history and the significant involvement of the RAAF in the Riverina region of New South Wales.
Within the Memorial Gardens at the front of the base is a mural dedicated to the Empire Air Training Scheme and a replica of a WWII Chapel built at Coomalie Creek, Darwin in 1943.
While we were viewing the display of static aircraft at the front gate, Graham told me that a pilotless Auster aircraft terrified Sydney when he was 6 years old. The aircraft dived, circled and swung on an erratic course over the city. Sydney authorities declared the entire city in a state of emergency as the plane swept overcrowded suburbs and the main central city area. Police, fire brigades and ambulances were alerted as aviation officials pinpointed the plane’s crazy course. Auster was airborne for over two and a half hours, before two Navy Sea Furies shot it down over the sea off Broken Bay.
I knew that two hours was not enough for Graham to spend in the aviation museum. Until he was willing to leave, I wouldn’t be the one who asked “Had enough yet?” That would be too cruel to him. On the other hand, I did enjoy watching him so excited like a child. Mmm, I wonder if his fascination with aviation has anything to do with that runaway pilotless Auster?
Driving towards Young, we saw many more dead animals on the road. An ecosystem includes all living things like plants, animals and organisms in a given area, interacting with each other and with non-living environments like weather, earth, sun, soil, climate and atmosphere. Each organism has its responsibility or role to play. We are obligated towards other living things on Earth. Our duties should include protecting their existence which benefits our ecosystem. Careless road kills interfere with nature’s intent.
Young
Young is a historic gold rush town, surrounded by orchards, vineyards and olive groves. Its first cherry trees were planted in 1862 and were the foundation of an industry that has brought the region fame as Australia’s Cherry Capital. If you love cherries, don’t miss out on Young’s Cherry Festival, which takes place in the first weekend of December.
To top up our fresh fruits and veggies supply, we drove to the first supermarket we saw. It was nice to see that Woolworths had solar panels covering entire car park roofs. The staff behaviour was quite different from what I was used to. They seemed toned down or sombre; maybe they had just received some bad news which had not been processed out of their mind at the time I visited. It didn’t ruin my positive spirit but for their sake, I hoped they snapped out of it soon.
Walking along the town centre, I saw a sign “Young Senior Citizen’s Centre” outside a building. This shows residents have a great sense of humour. Before I stopped laughing, I saw another sign “Anger is one letter short of danger”. Well, how can you not like this town? After all, Young was the first town in the southern hemisphere to connect electricity to homes. When they switched on the lights, most of us were still in the dark.
Lambing Flat Chinese Tribute Garden is only four kilometres away from the town centre; a good opportunity for us to do our daily walking. The garden was established in 1992 to recognise the contribution of the Chinese community to the settlement of Young in the 1860s and the ongoing progress of Australia as a nation. It’s a pleasant and well-established garden. Feeling tranquil while sitting by the water or feeling peace while walking on the grass, it’s a good place for meditation or practising tai-chi.
It was nice to see many young mums with their toddlers or babies in prams walking in the garden, with picturesque surroundings, spaciousness and better-quality fresh air. What a good way to bond with your loved ones.
It was Sunday; we walked from the town centre to the Garden, and didn’t see a single soul around. The roadside was quiet; we had the whole countryside to ourselves. In the afternoon, we headed back to town. We were doing our “high-intensity interval training” walking; that’s running hard for a minute or two, then walking normally for a minute or two. We stopped doing HIIT when we heard a car coming.
A man stopped the car and offered us a ride; that would only happen in a friendly town. You guessed it; we didn’t accept the kind offer because we needed our physical exercise. His gesture added a good feeling to our memories.
Cowra
On 5 August 1944, Japanese prisoners of war (POWs) housed in the detention camp in Cowra staged a breakout. Armed with improvised weapons including baseball bats and sharpened mess knives, they stormed the perimeter fences and overcame the machine gun posts. Never likely to be successful, all survivors were recaptured in the surrounding countryside in the days that followed. Prime Minister John Curtin stated that the attack was characterised by ‘a suicidal disregard of life’.
Nowadays, the remains of the POW campsite include information boards and a replica tower with a narrative about the site and what occurred there. If you wish to walk around this thirty-hectare, circular-shaped campsite, putting on a pair of walking shoes would be a good idea.
The Cowra Japanese Garden and Cultural Centre celebrates the Cherry Blossom Festival in September with bonsai workshops, Taiko drummers, sumo wrestlers, Japanese archery and sword demonstrations, origami, martial arts, singers, dancers, choir, kimono fashion parades, ikebana and tea ceremonies.
Canowindra
While driving through Canowindra (pronounced Ca-noun-dra), the sign “The Age of Fishes Museum” caught my eye. It is one of only two Devonian fish fossil museums in the world. Unexpectedly, it filled some of the holes in one of my interests.
This site is listed as part of Australia’s National Heritage because of its international scientific importance. The 360 million-year-old fossils were discovered in 1955; 38 years later, 80 tonnes of them were unearthed. Hence, the museum has a unique collection of prehistoric fossils.
Fish were the first animals to move from the water onto the land. That explains why some people are still quite fishy.
This town has an abundance of public dunnies; they are in easy-to-see locations wherever you go. It has got to be on the top of the list for a visitor-friendly town.
It is also known as the hot air balloon capital of Australia. With gentle winds and open countryside, more flights take place here annually than anywhere else in the country. The historic village of Canowindra is home to airborne adventures, celebrated vineyards and charming colonial history.
The Balloon Festival is held in the showground but it turns into a camping ground when not in use. It seems a good idea to make use of all the facilities. It gets some income and visitors get a wide-open area to camp; it’s a win-win situation. This is one of the most thoughtful campsites I’ve been to. Top up water and a dunny-dumpsite, in addition to showers and toilets, are most appreciated by campers.
After sunset, campers stop socialising. We walked around town for an hour or so; everywhere was quiet and peaceful. There are wide streets between residential properties and no footpath for pedestrians on the roads. There are less than three thousand properties spread over a large area; that’s what we city dwellers don’t have.
We woke up to the singing birds the next morning. Total silence gave us an uninterrupted deep sleep through the night and we were ready to face our adventure.
Before we left, we spent more than an hour in the local cemetery. It’s the place that tells the stories between the present and the past, the living and the dead. Graves were separated by the religions in this cemetery, like Catholic, Anglican, Presbyterian and the Salvation Army. Looked like Canowindra residents mostly die in their ripe old age.
Orange is a city
Orange is not named for the citrus fruit: the area around the town is nowhere near warm enough to grow oranges! It was named for Prince William of Orange, and later William I of the Netherlands.
The city is known for its bountiful local produce, from apples, pears, cherries, berries, plums, apricots, nectarines, peaches, figs and quince to truffles and grass-fed beef as well as its impressive vineyards and its fine dining restaurants. It is also known for its impressive autumn colours and its bitterly cold winters. It regularly gets snow in winter and is known as the country’s snowiest city.
Orange is the largest urban area in Central West New South Wales with a diverse regional economy underpinned by health services, mining, government administration, education, tourism and retail and manufacturing industries.
It offers all the benefits of country living with plenty of quality amenities such as schools, entertainment and outdoor activities plus it’s located in a beautiful region of rolling hills and abundant, lush greenery fields.
The Visitor Information Centre is co-located with the Orange Regional Museum in an award-winning new building, which I liked very much, close to the Orange Regional Gallery and Orange Library.
Wellington
Australia’s prehistoric past is within reach at the incredible Wellington Caves. An evolutionary and geological timeline dating from 400 million years ago undertakes a journey from underwater coral reefs to the age of megafauna while seeing our Nation’s First Peoples’ stories linked from 50,000 years ago.
The vertebrate fossil material of Wellington Caves is now known to demonstrate an impressively diverse cross-section of Australian fauna. This ranges from now-extinct megafauna through to long-lived modern species. Ongoing analysis of fossil material found in the caves provides important data regarding long-term changes in the diversity and ecology of the region.
The limestone caves are famous for the Cathedral and Garden Caves lined with beautiful stalagmites and stalactites, formed by droplets of water redepositing limestone in the same spot over millions of years.
“The Fossil Trail” is self-guided at our leisure. This above-ground and open-air area has ongoing scientific investigations being undertaken by two universities, so visitors mustn’t move or take any of the rocks or fossils from the reserve. We saw fossils of extinct animals like shells and skeletons of marine invertebrate animals, corals, nautiloid chambers and marine snail cone shells. However, one fossil snail’s shells look like today’s common land snails, and another one is crinoids also known as sea lilies. They were abundant in the Devonian time and about 80 species live today.
Dubbo
The Dubbo region is the ultimate destination of choice for those who travel at their own pace and choose to stay a little longer. Unfasten your busy schedule, remove the hustle and bustle from your routine, and unwind if you can.
My favourite attraction is the 5.5km circuited Taronga Western Plains Zoo. Formerly an army campsite during World War II, it was transformed into an oasis of woodland and irrigated grassland. It is now widely recognised as Australia’s greatest open-plains zoo.
It is committed to the conservation of native species, with active involvement in breed and release programs, habitat recovery and the rehabilitation and release of injured or orphaned wildlife.
The Zoo is an open-range design, with walls and fences replaced by concealed moats that divide the animals from the visitors. This creates the impression of being with the animals in the wild.
African lions are very social and are the only big cat that regularly lives in family groups. Due to man-made factors such as habitat loss, fragmentation and isolation, illegal wildlife trade and human-wildlife conflict, today lions are living on the edge of their existence.
The cheetah is often referred to as the “ghost of the grasses’’ in Africa and is the fastest land mammal. It runs up to 103km per hour in high-speed chases over distances of hundreds of metres. Full sprints only last on average twenty seconds, rarely exceeding one minute. I called it HIIT (High Intensity Interval Training).
Elephants are the largest living land mammal. They are smart, social and vital to their ecosystems. They play a crucial role in keeping forests strong, resilient and diverse. Taronga’s successful breeding program, which is driven by their experts and partner zoos, is a vital part of the international effort for many endangered species.
Meerkats are curious creatures. They have black fur around their eyes, which act like ‘built-in sunglasses’ to help them to see in the bright sunlight – they can look directly into the sun to see a predatory bird. Their bellies have an area of exposed skin that can be used to absorb heat while the meerkat stands up or they lie on their backs “sun baking” like those beachgoers.
Sumatran tigers are a critically endangered species with less than 400 left in the wild. These big cats love the water and can swim up to 6km and jump over 5m in length. A tiger’s roar can be heard as far as 3km away!
Cute and cuddly-looking koalas are not only an Australian icon, they have an important place in Aboriginal culture through shared stories, dance and rock art. They are recognised around the world as an Australian icon and for that reason, they’re an important ambassador for habitat preservation.
Black rhinos, Galapagos tortoises, red kangaroos (the world’s largest marsupial), hippos, spider monkeys, Tasmanian devils, African wild dogs, otters, zebras …. there are over one thousand animals in 40 different species in the zoo. You won’t have the chance to be bored even if you tried.
The Savannah Safari is a unique guided tour amongst herds of African animals. There are many animal encounter activities. If you go for the “Giraffe Encounter”, I would suggest you leave your sunglasses, hat and loose jewellery in your pockets or backpacks, just in case the world’s tallest animal doesn’t think they are suitable for you and uses its privilege and takes them off you.
We spent 6.5 hours walking around the zoo and loved every minute of it. Some of the keeper’s talks were the highlights of being there. Each animal has its unique personality; once we learnt from the keepers what it was like, we enjoyed watching it even more. Some love to be on centre stage, some love to be left alone. Some enjoy the visitor’s attention, some enjoy watching visitors. You might think I am talking about you or someone you know; that’s right, why do you think I refer to going to zoos as “visiting my relatives”?
Narromine
Narromine is about 40.5km away from Dubbo. There were two separate road repair works on Mitchell Hwy. The first site had all Caucasian workers. The second site workers that I saw were all Indigenous. It reminds me that the media tries to create controversial issues to attract people’s attention, often generating racial problems. What I witnessed was very positive.
Driving into a clean and tidy town named Narromine, we were surprised to see a big truck and a car with a trailer parked right on the main road. It was early in the morning; not a single car was parked on either side of the road. Those two vehicles could occupy a few parking spots on the road side, instead of blocking the main road. There was no driver in either vehicle so we had no choice but to drive on the wrong side of the road to pass them. Parked in the middle of the road? Really? Big city residents like me couldn’t believe what I saw; the first time always appears a big deal.
Narromine is famous for its aviation and sporting history. Residents have access to a range of sporting and recreational facilities. It has Australia’s oldest regional aero club which is still active today!
Narromine Aviation Museum displays a captivating exhibition of artefacts, documents and photographs to tell the century-long story of aviation as it unfolded in one of Australia’s most historic aerodromes.
The Wight Model A was the world’s first production aeroplane. The unique and flyable replica of the 1907 Wright Flyer Model A, which had logged several flying hours locally during 2005-2013, is now displayed along with some of the jigs and benches used to build it.
Macquarie River flows through Narromine. If you like fishing, water skiing, canoeing or swimming, don’t miss the opportunity for some fun.
Nyngan
Shortly after arriving in Nyngan, we saw many caravans parked in front of the Searing Museum, next to the main road and near the town centre. It’s the first campsite we had seen with bitumen paving; we stayed there without a second thought.
The next morning as we were walking around town, we saw the Big Bogan, a 5.96 metre tall rusted-iron statue, standing in a park near the banks of the Bogan River. He had a mullet haircut, a neatly trimmed beard and was dressed in a singlet, shorts and thongs. His right hand was holding a fishing rod and a Murray cod, his left hand a can of beer. A dog named Rusty is forever loyally standing by his side. Most important was an esky to keep the beer cold; it was placed by his feet and guarded by his best friend.
The humorous and light-hearted symbol has drawn attention and visitors, contributing to the town’s economy. My thumbs up to the town!
The term bogan is an Australian and New Zealander slang word. It can be someone whose speech, clothing, attitude and behaviour display a proud working-class attitude.
On our way towards Bourke, although we were in north-western New South Wales, with fine granite gravel on each side of the road, we started to see semi-dessert-like surroundings.
The first fifty kilometres of the drive saw evidence that a bushfire had been through; the scenery had that “end of the world” look. Bushlands were reduced to blackened stumps and ash covered most of the ground, with little vegetation left. These devastating images were scattered along the way on this trip and we expected to see them before we left home. Even though there was no surprise, they did create melancholy feelings. It takes a long time to build a bushland but doesn’t take much time for a fire to wipe out the vegetation.
When we travel, we make a point to wave to other drivers, especially the truck drivers, to take a bit of burden out of their routines. No matter what they are transporting, food, petrol or other goods, they are helping to provide for society’s needs. We wave our hands to show our appreciation for making our world a better place.
Cunnamulla
We saw hundreds of wild goats on the roadside before we arrived at Cunnamulla. Those animals were smart; they ran away from the road when vehicles drove by. We only saw one living kangaroo on the road. When it heard our van coming, it stopped moving forward, did a 180-degree turn and jumped towards the road. Hello, go back to your mob and keep away from man-made roads; there’s no prize for the self-made victim. Maybe it has a mental health issue, otherwise why so determined to challenge fate? We used the brake to avoid hitting it. Now, it explains why so many kangaroo bodies were lying on the road.
Cunnamulla is the first Queensland outback town on our way. We saw a sign on the highway about camel burgers and the Information Centre’s staff told us where to find the coffee shop so we could have our first experience of a camel burger. I was pleasantly surprised by how tasty it was, with beetroot, onion, tomato, pineapple, lettuce, grated carrot and cheese in ‘the lot’. You can ask the staff for what you like or don’t like; they will create the perfect burger just for you.
Australia has the largest population of feral camels anywhere in the world. In the second half of the 1800s, camels were brought into the country to help transportation across the Red Centre but when infrastructure was built, they were released into the desert. Nowadays Australian camels are occasionally exported to Saudi Arabia, the United Arab Emirates, Brunei, Malaysia, Thailand, New Zealand and Japan. In some countries, they are valued for their disease-free milk and meat, in some other countries they are prized as a delicacy. Some countries use camels for breeding stock, racing and entertainment purposes.
The word Cunnamulla means long stretch of water or big waterhole in the language of the Kunja people. It is in the Eromanga Basin, the world’s largest underground river that flows beneath half of inland Australia. The water takes almost two million years to travel from its starting point at the Great Dividing Range to where it surfaces in the deserts of central Australia.
This rural town had been the junction of stock routes in the past. Since 2005, the double life-size bronze statue “Cunnamulla Fella” has become an icon in the town centre. The image of a stockman sitting on a swag was a fictional figure in the song called “Cunnamulla Feller”.
More than 200 species of birds are found in the region. You may be a birdwatcher who is content with spotting birds in their local patch or anything you come across while out in the field or on their travels, but after visiting Cunnamulla, you might view new bird species and add them to your list. You could become a twitcher.
We were there in the early Spring; a stunning display of wildflowers brought so much colour into the world, indicating the power of nature.
While we were walking in the residential area, we saw a thong made of the natural colour of the wood as a mailbox, the length of the thong the same as the painted brown fence. The designer has a good imagination and a great sense of humour.
From Cunnamulla to Quilpie is about 300km. Most of the way is endless straight roads, cut through iron-rich flat land. Part of the way is a single dividing line, after a while it changes to double lines, then a single line again, and the changes are random. Both sides of the road have dirt mixed with stone, wide enough for vehicles to drive on when vehicles approach from the opposite side. I love driving in rural areas. Drivers are mostly polite and raise their finger/s when passing each other. That’s the Australian spirit.
Quilpie
Some 500 million years ago, central Australia was an inland sea, and silica-laden sediment was deposited around its shoreline. It’s believed that perhaps 30 million years ago, lots of silica was released into a solution that filled cracks in the rocks, layers in clay, and even some fossils. Some of them became precious opals. It takes about 5 to 6 million years to make a 1 cm opal mature. Today Australia produces 95% of the world’s precious opal.
Quilpie is home to “the jewel of the outback”. It had 530 residents recorded in the 2021 census. It has a hot semi-desert climate and people are pretty laid back. Their local Catholic St Finbarr’s Church has the only opal altar in Australia. It became the town’s premier tourist attraction. How could I pass through the town and miss it, HELLO, AUSTRALIA’S NATIONAL GEMSTONE IS OPAL. Sorry, I wasn’t shouting, just a bit excited.
It was a sunny day, not a cloud in the sky. It’s wonderful to sit in the air-conditioned car and drive around the town centre but that’s not our travelling style. We like to exercise our body by walking. After arriving at a new place, the first thing is to circle the town to get a feel of the place, then park the van and walk everywhere that we like to go. It was a hot day. The streets were wide but there were hardly any trees on the road, so forget about shade; all we had was scorching heat wrapped around our bodies tightly. No one was on the road; locals know too well that “only the mad dogs and the Englishmen are out in the midday sun”. Graham has English ancestry so he is an Englishman; does that mean I am the mad dog? Woof, woof!
Sun hats and an umbrella didn’t work in that radiant heat, my feet wouldn’t lift off the ground and my legs had to drag them along. Suddenly we looked at each other and smiled when a grocery store caught our eye! That was the number one wonder in the world to us at that moment. No need for Graham to pull me to walk faster, the thought of cold and creamy ice cream running down my throat was enough to add speed to my feet.
It was almost 1 p.m. when we stood in front of the closed store; it shut at 11:30 a.m. on Sundays. We looked through the window and saw neatly arranged aisles with a wide range of goods; couldn’t help to feel sorry for ourselves. I lowered my head between my shoulders and slowly removed my body from the store; now I really feel like a mad dog. Arf, arf!
We heard the side door open and a nicely dressed lady kindly let us inside the store. We grabbed a 4-single-size pack of ice cream and the largest pack of frozen blueberries from the freezer section. There were two of them still working behind the closed door. They both looked trim and terrific; it proves again that hard work improves the body and soul for everyone. We were so touched by and impressed with their attitude towards customers. Cheers “Paulsen Bros Friendly Grocer Quilpie”.
Eromanga
In the 2021 census, the locality of Eromanga had a population of 98 people living in a 28,252 square kilometre area. Thinking of all that space would free anyone with claustrophobia. Often, we drove for hours and did not pass another person or vehicle.
Eromanga is the furthest town from the sea in Australia. It is situated 860km northeast of the Coral Sea, part of the South Pacific Ocean.
After we arrived in Cooper’s hometown, Eromanga, our dinosaur fossil hunting began!
Australia’s South West Queensland’s Channel Country is home to Australia’s largest dinosaur fossil discoveries, the 95 million-year-old Eromanga dinosaurs. These exciting discovered dinosaurs are some of the world’s largest dinosaurs that ever walked on our planet!
Very special circumstances are needed to create fossils, which is why they are so rare. In Australia, dinosaurs are known from only a few fossil sites including Dinosaur Cove in Victoria, Winton in Queensland and Broome in Western Australia.
Based on skeletal remains found so far, Cooper is the Australotitan cooperensis, the largest land-dwelling species to have walked the Australian outback that we know of so far. It’s named after Cooper Creek and the Cooper Basin where this dinosaur’s skeletal remains were found in Eromanga in 2006.
Imagine you are Cooper, 30 metres long and 7 metres high, your body weighs 70 tonnes and your brain is smaller than a walnut. You swing your tail back and forth to pull your leg backwards and then release the force when you take a step forward. Each movement is a gigantic one, right? Believe it or not, you are an herbivorous – plant-eating sauropod dinosaur.
Stop! Who can imagine being a 95-million-year-old dinosaur? Although Cooper was an environmentally friendly vegan, no one would wish this giant creature present in today’s world. Making fantasy movies to entertain people is one thing, making the aspirational idea become reality is another.
The Eromanga Natural History Museum has the diversity of Outback Australia’s natural history on display – from the tiniest fossils the size of a sugar grain to the mightiest dinosaurs Australia has ever seen. From the Dinosaur Cooper Tour, we visited the Fossil Preparation Laboratory. The fossils are preserved in solid-rock boulders or fine-grained rock. As soon as they are discovered, they would be covered with plaster for transportation. We watched two volunteers chisel the rock away; it is a long process job. Fossil preparation includes mechanical removal of rock from the encased fossils.
Ann, our enthusiastic tour guide was proficient, well-informed and spoke well. Her sense of humour and passion for what she does made the tour most enjoyable.
The dinosaur dig is a long and slow process, with many dozens of bone patches and still some freshly discovered bone to excavate. ENHM labs had 10 different dinosaur bones to prepare and jigsaw at the time we visited.
Dinosaurs became extinct about 65 million years ago, after living on Earth for about 165 million years. In an evolutionary sense and given the fossilised evidence, birds are a living group of dinosaurs because they descended from the common ancestor of all dinosaurs. The mysterious cassowary is thought to be more like ancient dinosaurs than most other birds.
The “Knot-A-Saurus Park’ is located on the outskirts of Eromanga, the home of an amazing sculpture of a Sauropod and her two babies. They are made from 100-metre lengths of twisted aluminium and look remarkable under the scorching sunlight. In the evening they became astonishing when the sunset illuminated the family with colours.
Windorah
Fifty kilometres before reaching Windorah, I saw a sign “Emergency airstrip landing” for the essential provision of the Royal Flying Doctor Service and other aeromedical services. The Royal Flying Doctor Service is one of the largest and most comprehensive aeromedical organisations in the world, providing extensive primary health care and a 24-hour emergency service to people over an area of 7.3 million square kilometres. Thumbs up for the service!
It is delivered by a dedicated team of professionals, using the latest in aviation, medical and communications technology, and supported by a vast number of volunteers and supporters. Although I did not have the pleasure to see any action take place, I was satisfied to travel on the same road as their aircraft do.
We had a long walk in the morning along the Thomson River, with shady trees on the banks of the river. It is a bird watching, fishing and photography hotspot.
Longreach
As soon as we arrived at Longreach, we saw a mother emu with her six chicks on the side of the road. You guessed it – Graham parked the van on the opposite side of the road, we both jumped out of the van without exchanging a word and started to take photos with our mobile phones. When all the photography models look as good as those birds – long neck and long legs – no photographer would complain but put their heads down and focus on the creatures in front of them.
Qantas is the world’s third oldest airline by foundation date and the oldest airline in the English-speaking world. The Qantas Founders Museum is in the heart of the Longreach town centre. Outside the museum stands the red and white livery of a jumbo jet that dominates the skyline. Inside is dedicated to the history of Qantas, which greatly influenced Australian aviation and the global airline industry. The museum also features an impressive collection of artefacts, including historic aircraft, engines, uniforms and memorabilia, all of which highlight the evolution of Qantas from its inception to the present day. The museum’s main attraction is the Boeing 747-238, which was donated by Qantas in 2002. This aircraft, named “City of Bunbury”, is a fully interactive exhibit where visitors can explore the cockpit, sit in the captain’s seat, and even learn about the inner workings of a jumbo jet.
My last cruising experience on the river with dinner on board was in Melbourne with my beloved daughters. After that, I didn’t think any river cruise would be able to offer me the same experience. My friend Brian travelled to the channel country more than anyone else I know; one of his pieces of advice to me was don’t miss the “sunset dinner cruises on the Thomson River”.
Travelling on the river with a knowledgeable tour guide is good for the tourists. Unfortunately, the full-house boat had many verbal diarrhoea passengers, and with their non-stop and high-volume interference, we missed out on some of the tour guide’s commentary.
For one reason or another, those loud passengers were not at our dinner afterwards, or maybe they ran out of energy to disturb the peace? Nah, it will never happen! Surprisingly, they helped me to appreciate my life even more!
Our two-course dinner was accompanied by a bush comedian, John Hawkins. He talked about his experience as a stockman and pilot; and played the guitar and sang a song of stories that he created.
He had a good presentation; all his materials were new to the city folks like us. He spoke well, didn’t use crude language nor put anyone down. We laughed so much; that day became the best day since we left Melbourne. Thank you Brian!
Lily Lagoon is a temporary waterhole that is fed by the Thomson River and surrounded by Tangled Lignum, Coolibah Trees and River Cooba that provide a rich habitat for native birds and wildlife. The wildlife uses the waterhole to breed and grow, although when the lagoon dries up, the roots of the lilies and some water life bury themselves deep into the mud, which can lie dormant until the next flood. The lilies are from the Nymphaea genus of water lilies. These lilies are unique to the Thomson River system, being found only around Longreach.
Winton
Driving around in the air-conditioned van in the heat is wonderful; if we want to walk on the land that was once under the sea, that’s a different story. The sun not only dries out the land, the air and the grass, it also dries out the moisture from our bodies.
We try to get up in the early hours of the morning, while the air is still cool before the sun loses its tranquillity. We energetically walk around the unknown new places in whatever town we are in, join the first available tours, get into the museums, visit and take photos of the town’s interesting sites, only stopping our activities when the sun turns into searing heat. If our curiosity of the town is fulfilled, we take the chance to drive to the next intended place and spend the hottest hours in the air-conditioned van.
Before reaching Winton’s town centre, we chose to detour to “The Australian Age of Dinosaurs Museum of Natural History”, a prominent science-based not-for-profit museum. The Museum focuses on preserving Australia’s fossil past for future generations to learn from and find inspiration in. It includes the most productive Fossil Preparation Laboratory in the southern hemisphere, the Reception Centre and Collection Room and Dinosaur Canyon featuring life-sized bronze dinosaur dioramas.
It was after 2 o’clock. I’m not a fan of baking my body under a 35 degree sun, so the best we could do is book the first tour for the following morning.
The tour is separated into 4 different sections. It’s the visitor’s responsibility to attend each section. Three sections are held in the Winton location, one section is 100km away from Winton.
The first section is the “Fossil Preparation Laboratory”, located 500 metres away from the reception centre. A fossil preparation laboratory is a place where scientists carefully clean, preserve and study fossils that have been found in the field. All fossils arrive at the lab covered in rock or sediment. They may be very fragile so they need to be handled with care. Scientists use special tools, like tiny brushes, dental picks, or even small air-powered tools, to gently remove the rock around the fossil without damaging it. This process can take a long time, depending on the size and condition of the fossil. Sometimes, fossils are broken or have missing parts. Scientists in the lab carefully glue pieces back together or use special materials to fill in gaps, making the fossil as complete as possible. Fossils are often treated with special chemicals to make them stronger and protect them from further damage. This helps ensure they can be studied or displayed for many years. Once prepared, fossils are studied to learn more about the ancient organisms they came from. Scientists might use microscopes, X-rays or CT scans to look inside the fossil without breaking it open. Some fossils are sent to museums for public display. Others might be stored in the lab for further research. The entire process requires a lot of patience, precision and care to ensure that the fossils are preserved for future generations.
The “Collection Room” has the holotype-fossil bones of Australia’s most complete sauropod dinosaur and a few other specimens. They are all displayed in a semi-circle around a public stage where visitors can view the fossils as part of daily guided tours.
The Gondwana Stars Observatory was designated as Australia’s first International Dark-Sky Sanctuary. Sanctuaries are the most remote and often darkest places in the world whose conservation state is most fragile. Inside the building, the walls are covered in a black concrete render, which looks and feels like a meteorite crater that caused world extinction events throughout deep time. Generally, what is meant by deep time is geological time or cosmic time; in other words, billions of years.
Lark Quarry has a dry landscape of spinifex and lancewood dotted across gullies and steep escarpments. Ninety- five million years ago it was part of a great river plain, with sandy channels, swamps, and lakes brimming with freshwater mussels, lungfish and crocodiles. Rainfall was over a metre per year so the surrounding lowland forest was lush and green. On the day that drama unfolded, herds of small two-legged dinosaurs came to drink at the lake. There were at least 150 dinosaurs of two different kinds – carnivorous coelurosaurs about the size of chickens, and slightly larger plant-eating ornithopods, some of them as large as emus. A large meat-eating theropod, 4 tonnes of sharp-clawed, toothy dinosaur, approached the lake. It slowed, saw the other dinosaurs gathered at the water’s edge and began to stalk, then turned and charged. The stampeding herd of smaller dinosaurs left a chaotic mass of footprints, the evidence of a life-and-death drama played out on this very spot. Three thousand and three hundred fossilised footprints would not tell us much without scientific interpretation. Scientists used mathematics, comparisons and inspired guesswork to piece together the stampede story. This snapshot of a few terrifying moments has been frozen in time, immortalising the event and making Winton home to the only known dinosaur stampede in the world.
The Musical Fence is a public instrument. It is a wire fence that can be played as a musical instrument and it is the first permanent musical fence installation in the world. It can be played with sticks, plucked with a finger or bowed like a violin. A complimentary collection of “found sound” objects can be explored to provide a percussive accompaniment. Try using a small piece of metal to find different notes by pressing and sliding it up and down the wire in one hand while striking the wire with a stick in the other hand. You might be surprised to notice that you have musical talent hidden in your blood. Yahoo!
An original landmark “Arno’s Wall” is two metres high and runs for more than 70 metres long. The wall is constructed from concrete and rock, and is covered with a mixture of objects like bits and pieces of machinery, lawn mower parts, steel propellers, kitchen sinks, typewriters, motorbikes and the list go on. Eccentric? Yes! Unconventional? Absolutely! That’s why it attracts tourists.
Barcaldine
The Tree of Knowledge grew outside the Railway Station on Oak Street in Barcaldine since the beginning of the town settlement. It lived an estimated 200 years and earned its place in history as the headquarters of the Great Shearers Strike of 1891 and the reputed birthplace of the labour movement in Australia. This Ghost Gum was registered on the Queensland Heritage list in 1992. It was poisoned and killed by an unknown offender in 2006.
The Tree of Knowledge commemorates a milestone in the history of Australian democracy and an architecturally designed memorial was erected on the site and opened in 2009.
The tree now serves as an important place to meet and reflect, and in celebrating its importance in Australian history, remembers those who fought for better working conditions.
The formation of the Australian Labour Party also has its roots under the great tree because of events following the 1891 strike.
The Tree of Knowledge, so named because of all that had passed beneath its branches, still stands as one of Australia’s most significant monuments to its proud workers.
The Australian Workers Heritage Centre is dedicated to Australian workers, their families and supporters who have made an invaluable contribution to our Nation and its resources. They created unique social, political and industrial movements which were to reform, reshape and continue to influence our national character and all it stands for.
Jericho
This small town has many murals, one after the other, on the street library, toilet block, parks and residential areas. Some humorous, some very well done; I believe there are a few talented artists living in the community.
Unfortunately, many fierce dogs were loose on the street so we had no choice but to cut the visiting time short and move to the next town.
Alpha
Alpha’s streets are named after poets and writers, the main street being Shakespeare Street. The region is famous for its petrified wood. There is a stone sculpture installation representing a boulder which has been opened to reveal its treasures and mysteries. It tells the story of our connections with the past, present, future and the land. It is about continuity. The exterior of the sculpture has interesting forms, carvings and stone attachments to reflect the history of the prehistoric area in which petrified wood formed.
Emerald
The world’s biggest Van Gogh sunflower painting is on an easel in Morton Park, Emerald, next to the Visitor Information Centre. The superstructure is 25 metres high, with approximately 13.6 tonnes of steel involved in its construction. The painting celebrates the Central Highlands’ past as a major sunflower producer.
Van Gogh wrote to his sister about sunflowers in 1890, which were “…. almost a cry of anguish while symbolising gratitude in the rustic sunflower ….” Sunflowers can grow tall and strong even in adverse conditions, symbolising durability and flexibility. The sunflower can also symbolise enlightenment, spiritual awakening and personal growth. Its bright yellow petals and radiant energy are thought to bring positivity and joy into people’s lives.
See this link for more information: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Big_Easel
The Emerald Botanic Gardens are situated on the banks of the Nogoa River, located within the central Western District of Queensland. We liked the 6 kilometres of walking tracks. The Federation Pillars depicts our Australian identity with special emphasis on the Emerald area. Strolling through the delightful scent of the Rose Garden, the rainforest area has one of my favourite bottle trees. The unusual shapes and vibrant colour in the Cacti and Succulent Garden and the Herb Garden made me feel homesick.
Carnarvon National Park
Carnarvon National Park is often referred to as the “roof of Queensland”. The Carnarvon Gorge landscape is the result of the interaction of two natural forces: uplifted earth movements and water erosion. This cool and moist oasis is coated with vegetation and fed by the waters of numerous side gorges. Carnarvon Creek winds between towering sandstone cliffs. It always flows, even when it hasn’t rained for months. There is no man-made bridge to cross the stream; visitors cross it by walking or jumping over the large stepping stones lying on the water bed to keep themselves dry. After many times crossing the water bed, by the time we returned to the campsite, I continued to jump without any hesitation or need; that’s what the 200 million years’ old wilderness did to me – brought me back to my childhood. Water falling as rain in the high country slowly saturates down through the porous sandstone, eventually meeting a water-resistant band of rock. Unable to continue its journey downwards, the water moves sidewards along the sandstone and escapes through breaks, dribbling out to create moss patches.
Some visitors noticed the fossils of tiny plant-eating dinosaur footprints from the Jurassic period in 1992. The block of rock containing the prints is now held at the Queensland Museum in Brisbane and a copy was returned to the Carnarvon National Park. Keep your eye open wide if you are visiting; how exciting if you could discover any fossils!
The Information Centre was unattended while we were there; the car park was busy and so was the Information Centre. The photos and information on the wall and benches were general and not helpful. We saw a note that asked visitors to book a camping spot. After registering online, it wouldn’t accept our booking because it only works during the school holiday periods. Hmm, if they added three simple words “School holiday only” on the note, it would save many visitors’ time.
Nevertheless, nature is perfect here, delighting all our senses. Just imagine winding your way into the lush and green Carnarvon Gorge and exploring canyons, side gorges, ancient rock formations and Aboriginal art sites. If you wish to visit, please do your research at home beforehand and be well prepared. Rather over prepare than be sorry. After driving through the steep, narrow and winding roads to the mountain, you’d like to enjoy the natural surroundings and not be disappointed by your own “Nah, it won’t happen to me” attitude.
Monto
Monto is a country town settled on the banks of the Three Moon Creek and Burnett River; water providing life and leisure to farmers, locals and visitors.
On the main street, the shops sold local merchandise and produce, and eye-catching three larger-than-life murals were painted on shop buildings. A water tower away from the town centre has a coat of Silo Art too. The most impressive one is “Three Moon Silos”. For those that follow the silo art trail, this installation is the most northern stop on the map so far. Three Moon Creek has imaginative legends that surround the name of the creek; the outstanding Monto artwork pays tribute to the community’s past, present and future. One tells of a stockman fetching water from the creek one night when he noticed the moon in the sky and its reflection in both his billy and the creek. Another is of a Chinese gold miner who likewise noticed the moon in the sky and its reflection in his pannikin and the creek. A third legend is that of European landholders who employed Aboriginal people on their sheep stations. To ensure these workers returned from their walkabouts when needed they were asked to come back every third full moon.
I love silo art and mural art, especially when there are some meaningful stories behind them.
Mundubbera
Mundubbera is located on the edge of the Outback but is one of the largest producers of table grapes in Queensland. It also produced other varieties of fruits: blueberries, lychees, avocados, peaches, mangoes, watermelons, rockmelons, mandarins, oranges and nectarines. That explains why a caravan park is using a fibreglass Big Mandarin as a kiosk.
Gayndah
Gayndah is known as the citrus capital of Queensland and the home of the Big Orange. It was first settled in 1849; it claims to be the oldest town in Queensland. Several buildings have been heritage listed including Mellors Drapery which still uses a flying fox to deal with transactions, an old section of the State School, Gayndah Soldier’s Memorial Hall, Racecourse and several rail bridges.
Goomeri
Goomeri is a former timber town that retains a relaxed old-world atmosphere. Many of Goomeri’s buildings were constructed in the 1920s and retained their original charm. The ‘Lest We Forget’ town clock built in 1939 has become a landmark, earning Goomeri the name of ‘Clock town’.
The one and only Pumpkin Festival in Australia is held here annually on the last weekend in May, and the attendees would reach approximately 14,000 people. In the 2021 census, the locality had a population of 677. It would be interesting to see what a sudden increase of twenty times the population is like.
Kingaroy
Kingaroy is a rural town in Queensland. It has a cosmopolitan feel, yet is a tranquil, friendly and casual township. The name comes from the Wakka Wakka aboriginal word Kingaroori, which means ‘Red Ant’ and you can find this unique species of ant around the area. The town is surrounded by widespread farmlands scattered with plunging hills.
Australia’s largest peanut processing plant is located here and its peanut silos are the most noticeable landmark.
We arrived at the Visitor Information Centre, located within the Kingaroy Information Art and Heritage Precinct. We were surprised to see an extensive range of locally produced products nicely presented in a spacious area. A friendly volunteer greeted us and answered all the questions we asked. He used to work with a peanut processing company. The bonus for us was that we learnt so much about one of our favourite nuts’ journey, what happened after they left the growing ground before sitting on the shelf in the shop, waiting for the customers to pick them up.
Most unexpected was their RSL Club provides free entertainment with a dance floor. We stayed an extra night and took the opportunity to do some rock ‘n’ roll and line dancing; didn’t expect the band and other dancers to be so sociable and nice. It turned out to be the best mingling time with the locals for us on this trip; thank you Kingaroy residents.
Bunya Mountains National Park
The Bunya Mountains are like an island surrounded by plains and cleared farming land and are home to the world’s largest forest of bunya pines. They embrace green rainforests, eucalypt forests, woodlands and waterfalls, with panoramic views, unspoiled environments, a peaceful atmosphere and spectacular mountains. They are a refuge of biodiversity, harbouring ancient species, distinct plant and animal communities and more than 30 rare and threatened species. They are also home to 215 species of birds, with unique and precious varieties for birdwatchers to observe. There are 700 species of plants recorded in the Bunya Mountains National Park.
Bunya pines are considered living fossils – since the Jurassic period, they can live for 600 years or more. They can grow up to 30-45 metres tall, with sharp and glossy green leaves and clustered at the ends of branches. The cones contain edible seeds but it’s not easy for a hungry animal to pick them without injury. Graham called them “monkey puzzle trees” years before when we first noticed them in Victoria.
There are over 40 kilometres of walking tracks. Some start with gateway cleaning boots facilities, to clean soil from the bottom of our shoes before and after a walk to reduce the risk of disease spreading and causing bunya pines to die.
Urunga (pronounced Yu-roon-ga)
We followed the walkway into the shady rainforest. When we reached the Mt Kiangarow mountain edge, we sat on the rocks and were immersed in the panoramic scenery. The quiet and serenity of the high altitude offered us peace and tranquillity; the vastness of the landscape increased my appreciation and gratitude to nature. Inhaling the uncontaminated pure air into my lungs made me feel like I was thriving, that is so different from the polluted city air. In a perfect world, that’s the atmosphere we should all live in.
Urunga is known for its 150-metre elevated boardwalk, and a 450-metre walking track surrounding the park. The man-made Urunga Wetlands were used for processing heavy metals. The processing required large volumes of water which were released as waste tailings to the adjoining wetland foreshore, killing surrounding habitat. It became one of the most polluted natural environments in New South Wales.
In 2015, the NSW government started a $10 million reclamation project, beginning with treating over 36,000 tonnes of contaminated soil at the site and its storage in an onsite containment cell. The project improved the water quality. The wetlands have returned to satisfactory levels and birds and other wildlife have started to return since completion of the project in 2017.
The wetland is Crown land and forms part of the Urunga Lagoon and Kalang River systems. The remediation effort has resulted in a significant improvement. Now the wetlands are a beautiful place to be for the residents and visitors alike.
Port Macquarie
Sea Acres National Park is jointly managed by NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service and the Birpai traditional owners. It offers a unique living heritage stretching back to the Age of Dinosaurs and the emergence of flowering plants and song birds on Earth.
Just a 3 minute drive from the Port Macquarie CBD is this oasis of greenery. Walking into an architecturally-designed gift shop and passing the environmental education centre, as soon as we passed through the glass door, we felt like we were travelling back in time. The cool and moist rainforest air pleasantly welcomed us; we were totally immersed in the environment.
The boardwalk is an easy 1.3 kilometre walk through the rainforest canopy; it takes us on a journey through biological evolution and adaptation. There is so much to look at and listen to. You think you hear a cat meowing? Domestic cats aren’t allowed to be here, it is the green catbird. It’s easy to hear but not easy to spot because of the colour of its feathers. It was the first time in my life I saw the land mullet with a long tail and four legs, not once but twice in a different spot; their grey coats shining under the sun like silver. How lucky am I? I couldn’t help telling every child who passed me where they could see them. Almost like a little child seeing a dragonfly for the first time.
The strangler fig is native to Australia. Its growth habit is an adjustment to growing in dark forests where the struggle for light is intense. It needs host trees to help it to reach into the sunlight above the canopy. Eventually the fig tree will be able to support itself and the original support tree will die, left with a hollow core which provides a habitat for several animals. When its fruits are in season, it goes from renting land for free and turns into the Salvation Army, providing free bed and food for both residents and visitors. Therefore we shouldn’t judge them too harshly, after all nature has its way of managing the ecosystem.
Port Macquarie (which includes Sea Acres) has a large koala population, estimated to be over 2,000.
Koalas are most active during the night, particularly at dusk and dawn. They are considered nocturnal animals, spending most of their time sleeping during the day. While they can be seen moving around during the day, especially if disturbed or needing to find a new food source, they are primarily active when the sun is down. With the boardwalk winding through the rainforest, there are lots of opportunities to spot koalas in their natural habitat. Despite their cute and cuddly appearance, they are wild animals that can become aggressive when they feel threatened or stressed. They have sharp claws and teeth that can cause injury.
Many of the animals living in the rainforest have called this place home for tens of millions of years. It is a privilege to have their company for the few hours we are there. Thanks to Australia’s most formidable nocturnal predatory bird, the powerful owl, the scarlet robin busy feeding and nesting in tree branches, the native leaf-cutter bee, the Eastern water dragon, the brown antechinus, the sliding diamond python, and I can’t list them all. Most of all, I would like to thank the managing team, they provide the visitors a most comfortable boardwalk, with resting bays at regular intervals and an outdoor classroom half way along the boardwalk. It also looks great with decorative, crafted wooden artefacts. There was so much to see, we repeated the walk twice.
The Murray Street Yarn Bomb is an art installation, containing knitted and crotchet pieces created by locals, used to decorate public spaces, particularly in Murray Street. It’s part of the annual Artwalk Port Macquarie event. Seeing many trees wrapped tightly with hand-made art work reminds me of seeing dogs on the street covered in clothes in cold weather. Human prerogative?
We took it easy, spending some time in Sydney and some Victorian towns. We noticed that everywhere we go the cars are rushing, people are hurrying, pedestrians are talking into their phones…. Well, it’s not familiarity breeds contempt, it’s after spending some time in the outback, I forgot what the big city crowds are like. It’s not them, it’s me!
